Off-road mountain biking: North Wales to South Wales

‘Epic’ is an often used, cliched word in the mountain bike world. Sometimes though, it is just right.

I rode the Sarn Helen with Phill and Polly from Mountain Bike Wales in the summer of 2022. On booking it felt like a reasonable challenge; doable, with some ups and downs and alongs, on a journey from the north to the south of Wales.

What followed was a life affirming experience of impressive scale, against an ever-changing landscape, accompanied by my boyfriend Dave, named Superman by Phill (for his ability to ride up impossible hills and resemblance to Henry Cavill), and most unbelievably in near constant sunshine.

Approx. 70km (43 miles)

Day one of the trip saw us leaving Conwy with little true idea of what lay ahead. The undefined boggy section towards the end of the day had been missed out of the briefing and we arrived at the accommodation grateful for the shoe dryers and the warming hospitality and food. Day one was the introductions to the views, Polly’s baking, the merging of the natural landscape and the human influence and the physical challenge that followed us through the week.

Highlights

• Beautiful start at Castell Conwy and the quayside.
• A challenging rocky trail along the shores of Llyn Cowlyd, but a fun descent to Capel Curig.
• Following Sarn Helen from Dolwyddelan to Cwt-y-Bugail Quarry - crazy landscape and great stories about the royal jewels and arts works hidden here during the Second World War, but a brutal ascent and hike a bike to it.
• Amazing views to the North Wales coast and toward the south towards the Rhinogydd.
• Sarn Helen route and the Amphitheatre above Trawsfynydd.

Approx. 75km (47 miles)

My memories of day two rest on the peaceful view of Mawddach Estuary from high above and the addictive, exhilarating thrill of rocky descents, just within my comfort zone.

Highlights

• Sarn Helen into the forest of kings - Coed y Brenin. Manmade single track fun.
• Cafés in Dolgellau for cake and coffee.
• The Mawddach Estuary and the climb up Ffordd Ddu - an ancient drover's road. Amazing views of the coast.
• Last descent from Rhydyronen towards Pennal has brilliant views of the Dyfi Estuary.

Approx. 55km (34 miles)

By day three we are settling into the rhythm of biking day after day. Whilst that doesn’t prepare you to climb 1500 feet uphill shortly after breakfast, the expansive panoramic views distracted us from the exertion. On the final climb ‘Superman’ proved his namesake and cleared an excessively long climb taking us to Devil’s Bridge. The rest of us, Phill included, pushed.

Highlights

• Market day (Wednesday) in Machynlleth, so a busy ride out of the town.
• Glaslyn Nature Reserve and Hydrogen Valley are as remote a feeling on bike as you can get, with Pumlumon, the highest of the Cambrian Mountains towering over.
• More man made fun in Nant yr Arian on the red trail.
• Then a very well earned beer or two in Hafod, Devil's Bridge. Beautiful stay.

Approx. 75km (47 miles)

As it had been so dry, day four took us over the Monks Trod. Ponies looked on curiously as we rode on the barely visible track that has been part of a routeway for hundreds of years. Near to us were the Elan Valley reservoirs constructed from the late 19th century, offering me a reminder that landscapes evolve and change. What followed was the juxtaposition to this tranquillity: the best descent of the trip known as the Links. Enough stone and rock to grip and enough of a challenge to feel giddy at the end. I’d do that descent time and time again.

Highlights

• The Arch is a nice place to stop and have a break before heading into the Hafod Estate.
• Teifi Pools and Elan Valley offer more wild trails.
• Route 8 at the end of a long day is very welcome, and a roll into Builth Wells.

Approx. 60km (37 miles)

Day five started at Builth Wells and a generous breakfast. We covered ground quickly, familiar with the ‘wow’ views and able to measure the long climbs. There was an awareness that we were nearly there, starting to feel a bit tired in body and mind but equally not wanting the experience to end. Filled with Polly’s cooking, I didn’t have any trouble sleeping that night.

Highlights

• Over the Epynt to Brecon, calling by Y Gaer for views of the Bannau Brycheiniog and Black Mountains. Stunning.
• The long straight Sarn Helen from Brecon past the Brecon Beacons Visitor Centre, and over the top to Ystradfellte, pretty straight the whole way and clearly a Roman Road.

Approx. 85km (53 miles)

Day six brought us back to bustle and people. I remember getting to Swansea and feeling like we were nearly there as we rode along the sea front (we weren’t). With just a few more climbs, and ponies, we eked out every last bit of the journey through Wales. We arrived at Worms Head as the mist rolled in.

Highlights

• Starting with the straight Sarn Helen toward Banwen, where a ‘new Roman mosaic' of the Sarn Helen can be viewed on the floor.
• 10km of challenging straight rock strewn trail to Neath, and a welcome meet with the support van for food and a change of clothes.
• Through the busy Swansea Harbour and Mumbles, then onto the very lumpy Gower Way.
• Riding the ridge, stunning views of the coast and towards Three Cliffs Bay, beautiful bridleways, wild ponies, and finally Rhosilli Bay, and the very welcoming Worms Head Hotel.

Even over two years on I can still feel that sense of achievement, tired, full of memories and warmth. Sometimes ‘epic’ is the only word.

Alex joined a guided tour run by qualified mountain biking experts. Your accommodation, food, luggage and equipment transfers, and pre-ride advice is provided, plus you have the support van and experienced guides with you along the way. 

If you decide to attempt the Sarn Helen Wales Coast2Coast on a self-supported trip, check out the official Sarn Helen Trail guidebook and route information as part of your planning. There are many different on and off-road routes you can take, depending on your skill level, endurance and type of bike.

This multi-day tour is an incredible, challenging bikepacking adventure, taking in wild and remote off-road trackways. You will need to have the right gear and experience to undertake it safely.

• Follow the safety advice from Adventure Smart to make sure you're properly prepared.
• You can find places to stay along the Wales Coast2Coast route using our accommodation search. 'Cyclists Welcome' awarded places to stay have a drying place, a lock up, bike wash and a tool kit available.