Newport, the quiet hero of Pembrokeshire

Imagine a perfect coastal village tucked away from the world. If only it was also a great place for food-lovers, beach-lovers and local historians, with plenty of options for eating, bedding down and exploring, despite its small size. Perhaps it could work for both couples and families, solo travellers and big groups too…but all these dreams squeezed together make such a utopia a dream. Then you visit the north coast of Pembrokeshire, and find yourself in Newport.

A town founded by Normans in the 12th century, Newport became busy because when its port, at the Parrog, became a focal point for the wool trade. Pottery also flourished here: the town’s memorial hall hosts the Medieval Pottery Kiln, excavated in 2017, and believed to be oldest intact in Britain. Nowadays, there are still fishing-boats and artists in town, but Newport’s a sleepier, dreamier place. And it’s essentially two streets: one running from the village’s quirky castle (long privately owned) on the Carningli Mountain that looks over the town, the other the A487, travelling east to west towards Fishguard.

Nevertheless, plenty goes on behind those doors, more than you would expect. Here’s what not to miss when you go.

In East Street you’ll find an antique-hunter’s paradise, with a side-order of eye-popping transport memorabilia. The Carningli Centre has over 10,000 second-hand books (including a brilliant pocket money section for kids), maps, antique furniture, a gallery for local artists, and a room of railway signs from across the UK (these would give any mantelpiece a good dose of quirk). Graham from the shop also restores antique furniture, and with his partner, Ann, they hire out bikes. A whole mish-mash of jumbly loveliness here.

Up on Market Street in school holidays and on bank holidays, you’ll find the doors open on the remarkable Ty Twt (Little House), a tiny museum of dolls’ houses from 1840 to the present day. Founded by Val Ripley and her late sister Pam, this is their personal collection, including their very first house, which they played with as children.

The houses are gorgeous and fascinating too. You could spend hours spotting tiny details like salt and pepper pots, gramophones and showers appearing in the early 20th century, while modernist architecture appears in the 1930s, and there’s even an Anderson shelter in a drawer in a house from the Second World War. 

If you’re lucky, Val will also be there, ringing in the entrance fees on a toy cash register. Entrance is £3 for adults and £1.50 for children, or family tickets (2 adults and 2/3 children) are £8.00, and worth every shiny penny.

Newport Collective is a multi-roomed gallery run by local artists and craftmakers and is an impressively peaceful haven on the A487. The variety of goods on show and on sale is fantastic, including bespoke furniture, modern woven blankets, ceramics, stained glass, paintings, sculpture and jewellery.

For lunch, The Golden Lion is fantastic, particularly for groups, as it’s huge. The proprietors serve hearty, seasonal stuff like Welsh farmer’s platters, ploughman’s lunches and pies, and their vegetarian options are great (try their broad and spinach burger with harissa mayonnaise if it’s on the menu). They’re also great at seafood in the evening, always offering a catch of the day.

The 300-year-old Golden Lion bar is also lovely for a local Welsh beer, cider or botanical gin. Enjoy your glass by the fire, and cwtch-up, as we say, in the cold winter months.

Another great lunch option is Blas at Fronlas on Market Street, an unpretentious café with wooden tables, and a small deli. Study breakfasts, Blas boards (with cheese, ham or smoked mackerel pate) and homemade cawl are regulars on the menu, as are tasty, simple options for kids.

The Pembrokeshire Coast Path weaves and loops beautifully around the cliff-lined coast north of Newport. Shorter walks include the area’s pretty woodland, while longer treks will get you walking over dunes and around the area’s lime kilns. And if it’s a decent day, you’ll want to venture further into the sand and the sea…

A mile’s easy walk downhill from town takes you to Parrog. Here, fishing boats sit quietly on the now-shallow waters, while North Pembrokeshire’s dramatic hills loom out of the sea. Locals drink their pints at the Newport Boat Club, and eat ice creams at the Morawelon Café, which is very child and dog-friendly (baked local crab and Preseli lamb are also on the menu inside). Kids will enjoy running across the wet sands, and climbing the low level rocks. Adults will enjoy the old-fashioned views, changing gently with the tides and the seasons.

Also known as Traeth Mawr (Big Beach), Newport Sands is a longer walk or a drive from town, but it’s worth it. Its mile of flat sand is busy in the summer with canoes and kayaks, some of them heading off to find coves among the cliffs.

Five miles west towards Dinas Cross, is the area’s jewel: the magical cove of Cwm-yr-Eglwys. The remains of a chapel sit eerily above the beach, the rest drowned by a huge 19th century storm. On the beach itself, plenty of rockpools, a rocky promontory to climb, and good paddling waters and sand offer a perfect stop-off for families. Parking can be difficult, so get there early.

The Tides Kitchen and Wine Bar on Market Street offers fancy delights, and posh fish and chip supper Tuesdays. If you’re looking for something different, the widely popular The Canteen serves home-made pizzas, burgers and salads in American diner-style booths. If you’re self-catering locally, they also do takeaway pizzas (apart from Mondays and Tuesdays in school holidays).

And why wouldn’t you stay? Especially when there are so many places to do so in Newport: small hotels, cute B&Bs and lovely houses to rent. Here, you can sit back and imagine you live in North Pembrokeshire permanently. I’m dreaming of walking, eating and drinking such a scenario already.

Search for more attractions near Newport.

This beautiful area has plenty of accommodation options in and around Newport, including Cnapan Guest House, a traditional Georgian town house, and the 4 star YHA Hostel. There are several lovely self-catering options deep in the countryside or by the coast. Bettws Self Catering Flat has three bedrooms and is just yards from the sea, spectacular views of the bay and beyond.

Not far from Newport is Y Garth Boutique B&B - an award-winning Gold 5 star bed and breakfast which prides itself on providing a welcoming, relaxing oasis.