A four day trip itinerary for a dog-friendly holiday in North Wales

You know those places you visit that make you debate packing up your life and moving there for good? That’s now North Wales for me.

With my partner Jack, our young daughter Lilly and cockapoo Teddy in tow, we headed to the tranquil, riverside village of Betws-y-Coed, located on the north eastern edge of Eryri (Snowdonia) National Park, to uncover how, thanks to a mix of breathtaking walking trails and a plethora of pooch-welcoming restaurants and places to stay, this beautiful part of the world makes for the perfect dog friendly holiday. 

Here’s what we got up to on our four days of fun in North Wales, featuring wow-inducing waterfalls, tranquil tea rooms, and a sighting of some famous goats.

After gawking at some incredible vistas on the winding drive through Mid and North Wales, we arrived at Betws-y-Coed, a little after lunchtime. It’s a truly picturesque little village, with old stone bridges traversing the tree-lined River Llugwy (or Afon Llugwy in Welsh) that meanders right through its centre.

Though we were itching to get out exploring, our stomachs had started to rumble, so we headed directly to Alpine Coffee Shop, a cosy cafe situated within the village’s atmospheric railway station, which dates back to the mid-19th century. Offering a variety of delicious soup, salads and toasties, plus sausages for Teddy, it provided a perfect platform (quite literally!) to start our adventure.

Our stomachs full, we headed off to explore the Gwydir Forest Park, a woodland that surrounds Betws-y-Coed, which is easily accessed via a number of waymarked hiking trails that unravel from the centre of the village. Having Lilly with us, we opted for the easy Coed Tan Dinas route, which begins along a raised boardwalk that curls around the thick trunks of century-old fir trees.

The scenic, gentle trail looped us back into the village, and, from here, it was only a short stroll to our accommodation. The grand Gwydyr Hotel, built during the 1800s, offers pet-friendly deluxe rooms with beautiful interiors and plenty of space for both our toddler and dog to be comfortable. It’s really important for us that Teddy feels as welcomed as any other guest and the staff at the Gwydyr Hotel treated Teddy like the fluffy king he is.

We woke early for breakfast at the hotel (which included a portion of sausage and bacon for Teddy!), then hopped in the car to reach our first stop of the day, Swallow Falls. It’s one of those magical natural spots, where the Llugwy River cascades over a narrow section of smooth dark rocks between thick barriers of beech and birch trees, already a tinge of copper amongst their canopies with autumn on the way. The views along the river here are picturesque, which is fitting given the Llugwy has been a draw for artists since the Victorian era.

A 10-minute drive north from the falls is Llanrwst, a gorgeous market town that’s home to what is surely one of the prettiest buildings in the world! Almost completely blanketed in ivy, which turns vibrant red and orange in Autumn, Tu Hwnt i'r Bont is a former courthouse with a history that dates back to the 15th century. Visit local deli Blas ar Fwyd and go for a picnic in this pretty location.

We continued following the Conwy River north to its namesake town that stands on the shore of the Irish Sea. Conwy is famed for its multi-towered, 13th century castle, which, along with three other mighty fortresses in North Wales, is designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. While dogs can’t enter the castle, they can join for a lap around the raised medieval walls, which were built during the same period and once protected the town from invaders.

For dinner, we returned to Betws-y-Coed to sample the toppings at the much-loved Hangin' Pizzeria. It was a simple choice for me, a tantalising classic tomato and mozzarella. The atmosphere here was great too. They often have live music, and even on the super busy evening that we visited there was room inside or out – with both areas dog friendly, of course.

We started Saturday with a trip to the village of Beddgelert, a 30-minute drive west from Betws-y-Coed. The village has a famous dog connection, reputedly taking its name from the legendary wolfhound Gelert, who, in Welsh folklore, was a faithful companion to Llywelyn the Great, a medieval Welsh ruler. Gelert’s grave is a popular landmark in the village, which, aptly, is a superb destination for dog walking, with mountain views everywhere you turn.

Our wanderings took us up to lunchtime, so we headed to Dylan’s Restaurant in the seaside town of Criccieth. Plonked almost directly on the town’s shell-strewn beach, the restaurant specialises in locally-sourced seafood, including steaming pots of the much-lamented mussels from the nearby Menai Strait. We opted for the seafood tacos, which were very refreshing on a hot day. There was lots of outdoor seating, but we opted for an indoor table to keep Teddy and Lilly nice and cool.

From the restaurant, diners can also spy the outline of Castell Cricieth, which crowns a nearby hilltop. Originally built by one Welsh prince (Llywelyn the Great) and destroyed by another (Owain Glyndŵr), the coastal stronghold is a dog-friendly attraction and offers unbeatable views out across Cardigan Bay from amongst the weathered ramparts.

Having successfully conquered a castle, it’s only right that we followed this endeavour with a feast worthy of a queen, and that’s what we were treated to at Y Stablau, a restaurant within the Royal Oak Hotel, back in Betws-y-Coed. Here, a superb selection of hearty dishes, for both adults and little ones, can be enjoyed on a beautifully decorated outdoor terrace surrounded by the forest. Again, the venue was very dog friendly. I feel it's common for dog parents to feel like we’re sometimes being judged by others for having a dog inside somewhere (even when they're well behaved!), but there wasn't a second either of us felt like this during any of our dining experiences on this trip, including at Y Stablau.

Sunday marked the last day of our North Wales sojourn, and we started it by again heading north, this time to the coastal resort town of Llandudno. The town is most famous for its pier (one of the longest piers in the UK), that stretches out into the depths of the Irish Sea. Built in 1878, the structure was such a draw for tourists in the early 20th century that it had to be widened. Today it boasts a number of attractions along its length, from an inviting bar at its tip to its very own big wheel, which is certain to be a hit with younger visitors. The pier is dog friendly, while the nearby beach welcomes dogs during the winter months.

After a promenade along the pier’s historic boardwalk, we took a ride on the wonderfully old-worldly Great Orme Tramway, which began operating way back in 1902. The emblematic blue carriage transports passengers to the summit of the Great Orme, a craggy headland overlooking Llandudno that’s crisscrossed with windswept walking routes and dotted with enticing cafes.

Along the way we kept an eye out for one of the Orme’s quirkier attractions, a herd of Kashmiri goats. Claimed by some to have originally arrived in Britain as a gift from the Shah of Persia to Queen Victoria, the goats – who went viral during the Covid-19 pandemic when they began routinely strolling through Llandudno’s then-deserted streets – have made the headland their home. Not something you’d probably expect to see in a Welsh seaside town!

We had a phenomenal time during our stay in North Wales, making lovely family memories to cherish with a range of activities that were enjoyed by the whole family, Teddy included. We’re already looking forward to returning to North Wales – even if a permanent move remains a fantasy. Albeit, a dogged one.